Our Five Favourite Northumberland ‘Very Severes’

Pinnacle Face VS 4c*** (Crag Lough)
Image – Karin Magog

 Pinnacle Face VS 5a*** (Crag Lough)

A one move wonder with a great feeling of exposure. Put some gear into the lip and pull onto a positive face – just watch out for nesting peregrines and enjoy the views!

Delicatessen VS 4c*** (Simonside)
Image – NCL Staff

Delicatessen VS 4c*** (Simonside)

A delicate unprotected start leads to a positive break, or positively broken bones if you come off! A fine crack allows for some fluid and rewarding moves with sufficient gear for peace of mind.

Rothley Crack VS 5a*** (Rothley)
Image – Ricky Reed

Rothley Crack VS 5a*** (Rothley)

Dominating the crag, Rothley Crack lies begging to be stuffed with cams, hexs and sweaty fists. A must do for fans of aesthetic lines with some tasty variations for the more intrepid.

Lorraine VS 5a*** (Bowden Doors)
Image – Rich Duff/Jon Bird

Lorraine VS 5a*** (Bowden Doors)

A definite county classic – follow a fingery layback to a godsend of a break, pop in some gear and enjoy a incongruously delicate top out. Best appreciated when soloed in a tweed cap!

Tacitation VS 5a*** (Kyloe Out)
Image – John Dalrymple/NMC.com

Tacitation VS 5a*** (Kyloe Out)

An awkward, bouldery start leads to an ever so slightly nicer crack which gives you time to catch your breath and reflect on whether this trad business is really for you. A rewarding climb at a crag with many other classics – find this easy? Have a crack at Coldstream Corner HVS 5a*** for another classic county tick.

Credit and thanks goes to the owners of these photos, as well as the NMC and the BMC for the work they do to enable access, preservation, and logging of the routes on these great crags – Harry William Brook (LD Mountain Centre)